Layer Feed 16% - FG Edwards

Laying hens in active production need 16% to 18% crude protein in their feed. The 16% level is the established standard for backyard and small-flock hens with access to outdoor foraging, where they supplement their protein naturally by eating insects, worms, and greens.

Beyond the raw percentage, what matters most is the quality of the protein — specifically the essential amino acids lysine and methionine. Methionine is critical for eggshell formation and feather health, while lysine supports tissue growth and overall egg production. A well-formulated 16% feed with the right amino acid profile will outperform a poorly balanced 18% feed.

During molting (typically late fall), protein needs spike temporarily since feathers are roughly 85% protein. During these periods, supplementing with high-protein treats like black soldier fly larvae can help bridge the gap.

Nutritionally, pellets and crumbles are identical — they contain the same ingredients and provide the same nutrients. The difference is in form factor and how your hens interact with the feed.

Pellets are the preferred choice for most adult laying hens because they produce significantly less waste. Hens cannot sort through pellets the way they can with crumbles, so every bird gets balanced nutrition with every bite. Pellets also keep the coop cleaner and attract fewer pests.

Crumbles are better suited for younger pullets transitioning from starter feed, smaller bantam breeds, or older hens that may struggle with larger pellets.

For a typical backyard flock of standard-breed pondeuses, pellets are the most economical and practical choice — you will see noticeably less feed wasted, which means your 25 kg bag lasts longer.

A standard laying hen consumes approximately 125 to 150 grams (about 1/3 lb) of complete feed per day. This varies based on breed size, season, and available foraging.

In winter, consumption increases to 150–160 g per day as hens burn more calories maintaining body heat. In summer, hens eat less, but their nutritional requirements remain the same — making feed quality even more important during hot months.

At 125–150 g per day, a 25 kg bag will feed:

• 4 hens for approximately 40–50 days
• 6 hens for approximately 28–33 days
• 10 hens for approximately 17–20 days

Complete feed should make up at least 90% of your hens' diet. Scratch grains, kitchen scraps, and treats should never exceed 10%, or you risk diluting the carefully balanced nutrition your hens need for consistent egg production.

Thin or soft eggshells are most commonly caused by insufficient calcium intake. A laying hen needs approximately 4 grams of calcium every day, of which about 2–2.5 grams go directly into forming each eggshell.

Common causes:

• Calcium deficiency — even with quality layer feed, some high-producing hens need more. Offer crushed oyster shell free-choice in a separate dish.
• Vitamin D3 deficiency — D3 is essential for calcium absorption. Hens with limited sun exposure (common in Quebec winters) may not synthesize enough. A complete layer feed formulated with added D3 helps prevent this.
• Age — very young hens just starting to lay and older hens past 4–5 years naturally produce thinner shells.
• Stress or parasites — predator threats, pecking order conflict, or intestinal worms can disrupt shell formation.

If the problem persists despite calcium supplementation and quality feed, consult a poultry veterinarian.

Switch to layer feed when your pullets reach 18 to 20 weeks of age, or when you see the first egg — whichever comes first. Most common backyard breeds begin laying between 18–24 weeks.

Why the timing matters: Layer feed contains elevated calcium levels (3.5–4.5%) specifically to support eggshell formation. Feeding high-calcium diets to young birds before their reproductive systems are active can cause kidney damage and shorten their lifespan. This is why chick starter and grower feed exist as separate stages.

How to transition: Mix the new layer feed with the remaining grower feed over 7–10 days, gradually increasing the proportion. A sudden switch can cause temporary digestive upset or feed refusal.

Once your hens are on layer feed, also begin offering crushed oyster shell free-choice in a separate container so high-producing individuals can supplement their calcium intake as needed.

This depends on whether your hens are still laying or have stopped completely.

If your hens are still laying (even reduced production): Continue with layer feed. They still need the calcium and balanced nutrition. Increase the daily ration slightly (closer to 150–160 g/day) since hens burn more energy maintaining body heat in Quebec's cold months.

If your hens have stopped laying entirely: Consider switching to a maintenance or finisher feed for the duration of the laying pause. This reduces calcium levels — excessive calcium intake in non-laying hens can cause reproductive problems when laying resumes in spring.

Winter feeding tips for Quebec:

• Ensure clean, unfrozen water is always available. A heated waterer is essential below -10°C.
• Warm treats like cooked oatmeal in the morning help hens generate body heat, but keep treats under 10% of total intake.
• Scratch grains scattered in the late afternoon provide a metabolic boost overnight.
• The natural rest period benefits long-term hen health — do not rely on artificial lighting to force winter laying unless your birds are young and healthy.

When days lengthen in spring and laying resumes, transition back to layer feed over 7–10 days.

Properly stored, pelleted layer feed maintains its full nutritional value for 3 to 6 months from the milling date.

Storage best practices:

• Transfer feed into a sealed metal container with a tight-fitting lid. Rodents can chew through bags overnight.
• Store in a cool, dry, dark location. Heat above 27°C accelerates vitamin degradation, and moisture promotes mold.
• Keep containers off the ground on a pallet or shelf to prevent moisture absorption.
• Follow first-in, first-out — use older stock before opening new bags.
• Clean storage containers thoroughly between bags to prevent mite infestations.

Signs your feed has gone bad: rancid or musty smell, visible mold or clumping, hens refusing to eat, or a decline in egg production.

Rule of thumb: Do not purchase more than 4–6 weeks' supply at a time, especially in summer. For a flock of 4 hens, a 25 kg bag lasts roughly 40–50 days — well within the freshness window.

No. Scratch grains are not a substitute for complete layer feed — they are a treat, comparable to giving your hens dessert for every meal. Scratch typically contains only 8–9% protein (versus the 16% minimum laying hens require) and lacks the calcium, vitamins, amino acids, and minerals essential for egg production.

What happens when hens eat too much scratch:

• Egg production drops significantly or stops entirely
• Eggshell quality deteriorates (thin, brittle, or soft shells)
• Hens become overweight — excess fat around the reproductive organs can cause laying problems
• Nutritional deficiencies lead to poor feathering and increased susceptibility to disease

The right way to use scratch grains:

• Limit scratch to no more than 10% of total daily intake — about 1–2 tablespoons per hen
• Feed scratch in the late afternoon, after hens have eaten their fill of complete feed
• Scatter it on the ground to encourage natural foraging behaviour

A complete layer feed is formulated by animal nutritionists to provide exactly the right balance of protein, calcium, phosphorus, vitamins, and essential amino acids. Think of layer feed as the main course and scratch as an occasional side dish.